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Submitted by Greenville Town Manager John Simko - Knowing that nothing really good in life comes to you without great effort, four Piscataquis County men set out Saturday to climb five mountains in 15 hours. Many of us were party to the "4 mountains in 48 hours" effort of November 2003. This year, four of us – John Simko of Greenville, Roger Merchant of Guilford, Peter Wallace of Milo and Mark Doty of Cornville (originally from Sebec) – set out to see if we could chain together five separate peaks within a fifteen hour period. Our plan was to first climb trail-less Big Spruce Mountain (located near Gulf Hagas in Bowdoin College Grant East), then travel cross-country to the White Brook Trail leading to Whitecap Mountain. We planned to summit Whitecap, and then follow the Appalachian Trail south to Hay Mountain, West Peak and Gulf Hagas Mountains. | |
| What we did not expect was to find as much snow on the mountains as we did. We have been planning this trip for several months, and were committed to the November 6 date. We used two vehicles, staging my truck at the last bridge on an access road leading to Gulf Hagas Mountain. We then traveled further east in Peter's truck to a woods road leading to the base of Big Spruce Mountain (elevation 3,103'). We followed this cut in the woods for a short ways, then picked our way up trail-less Big Spruce Mountain, following both moose trails hardwood stands as much as possible. From our 7:00 AM start, we reached the summit of Big Spruce – through steep inclines and ~6-8" snow – by 8:45 AM. | ![]() On top of Whitecap, from left to right: Roger Merchant, John Simko, Peter Wallace, and Mark Doty. |
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Coming down Big Spruce, we were treated to amazing views looking west and north, with the morning sunlight highlighting the peaks of Chairback, Columbus, #3 & #4, Rum, Gulf Hagas, and West Peak Mountains in the distance. The temperature was hovering around freezing with no wind – perfect conditions for winter hiking. The trip down the mountain was highlighted by jet fighters and gaiter malfunction. Soon after improvising a set of gaiters for Roger using duct tape, we spotted two jet fighters shooting across the Whitecap ridgeline, flying at supersonic speeds, presumably on a training run. It looked like we could have hit the jets with a snowball if we had been standing on Whitecap at the time of their passing.
Coming off Big Spruce, we followed old twitch roads NNW toward the base of Whitecap Mountain and the White Brook Trail. Moose signs were very prevalent throughout here, as were deer signs later on the same trail. There was a frozen swamp we wandered through, and the snow lessened to no more than 6" depth. By 11:30 AM, we were at the waterfall which forks the trail into the White Brook cut-off trail to the Appalachian Trail (AT) between Whitecap and Hay Mountains, and the old Fire Warden's Trail which runs steeply and directly to the summit of Whitecap. We had hiked 3.8 miles to this point. Choosing the Fire Warden's Trail, we followed the most direct route, despite the snow on the ground and the snow which began to fall from the sky. We replenished our water supplies at the waterfall, using Peter's water filter. The Fire Warden's Trail is a little less than a mile long, leading from the fork in the trail. The terrain is very steep, and with snow depth increasing to 8-12", this part of the trip was easily the most physically demanding. We took turns breaking trail and with my axe I took out eight separate trees (mostly minor in size) blown down across the trail while climbing up and down Whitecap. The summit (elevation 3,644') was windy and icy, with the sleet in the wind stinging our faces as we celebrated reaching the summit. We decided to see what the ridgeline was like across the AT, which proved to be a gentler descent and a pleasant walk in snowy woods through ~10" of fallen snow. When we got to the White Brook cut-off trail at 2:45 PM, we decided it would be best to forego the next three mountains, and instead back-track to our trucks. As much as we wanted to achieve our goal, safety and our group's well-being took precedence. We followed down through the cut-off trail, returning to the White Brook trailhead, a circuit up and down Whitecap 4.25 miles long. At the top of the White Brook trail, we decided to break into two groups and simultaneously collect both of our trucks. It was only 2 miles to Peter's truck through the frozen swamp and some minor bushwhacking. Peter and Roger followed this route while Mark and I continued down the White Brook Trail, which became a passable woods road. We eventually came to the intersection to the road to Gulf Hagas Mountain (over a bridge with some broken planks we had to replace to cross over). We continued up the hill to my waiting truck, arriving at about 4:45 PM just as it was getting dark. We had traveled about 4.5 miles in roughly 1 ¾ hours. Driving out, Mark and I met up with Roger and Peter at High Bridge, unloaded Roger's stuff from Peter's truck so we could head back to Greenville (Peter's lives about 30 minutes away in Milo), and the three of us arrived at my house in time for supper. We had traveled over two peaks totaling 6,747' in total elevation, approximately 2,600' in total elevation gain, and 12.5 miles in maximum distance hiked. There was a small gathering of friends waiting for us to see how we did. We shared our story with everyone, and realized that at any age (within the previous week one of us had just turned 35, the other 62, the rest of our troupe within this range of ages) physical challenge, leadership and friendship all can intersect on snowy mountain peaks in November in Maine. It doesn't matter how difficult the journey: there can be no greater reward than to share adversity with friends, find the reward of personal accomplishment and physical beauty from atop a snowy Maine mountain, and to finish the day safe and sound and in the good company of family and friends. Some will ask me "why did you do all of that this weekend"? I will ask them in turn, "Why haven't you tried doing the same"?
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